Socialisation
Socialisation is about introducing your dog to the world and life experiences and learning manners.
During socialisation there may be times when your pup becomes scared DO NOT COMFORT HIM you would be encouraging fearful behaviour and we do not want that. If he becomes fearful, stay calm do not talk, touch or look at him wait until he calms and relaxes and then praise him. Praise the good behaviour and ignore the unwanted behaviour. Never walk away from what he is scared of you are giving him the message that you are both running away.
Dogs by nature are not predisposed to fear, however, some dogs are more than most that is why socialisation is so important.
First of all let’s get rid of a couple of myths
Can dogs be too old to train or be socialised?
Dogs can be socialised or trained at any age, my oldest client to date was a seventeen year old border collie and he loved every minute of it. Personally, I think he was chuffed that people realised he was not over the hill or past it that he was still a pup at heart and the socialisation and training opened up a new world to him that his fear had long denied him. It took years off him and added years to his life.
Socialisation is about dogs meeting people
Socialisation is not about introducing your dog to as many people as possible in a short space of time and letting everyone he meets pick him up, stand over him, ruffle his head etc. Neither is it about forcing him into every pack of dogs you meet.
There are different types of socialisation and all are important
1 – Being with mum
There is a very important reason why pups should stay with mum and their litter mates up to nine weeks of age. From their mums (assuming she is a well balanced dog herself) and their litter mates they start to learn social interaction, bite inhibition a good mum has a lot of valuable information to impart to her pups but she needs the time to do it. I know people worry about getting their puppies out and about early to socialise them, and worry that these extra weeks may stunt their social development. Firstly, no one can start the socialisation period as well as the bitch, Secondly a good breeder will not let the pups go early and will start the socialisation process and Thirdly the pups by the time you bring them home should already have had their first jab and be ready for their second. So you can take them out pretty soon after you bring them home.
2 – Socialising with people
A common mistake people make when they bring their puppy home is to immediately have loads of guests round to meet the pup and as they believe positively start their part of the socialisation process STOP. Now think about how this could go wrong he has just left his mum and litter mates and the only family he has ever known. He has had a trip in a big noisy box (car) with strange people (his new family) to say he is in a mild state of panic would be an understatement. So giving him a few days to settle in would be a sensible idea. Remember, he does not know you or the new house the best rule of thumb when you bring him home (after you have shown him where to go to toilet and where his water and bed are) is to leave him alone and let him get his feet under him. I don’t mean shut him away but let him at his own speed come to you. This is what builds confidence and when he does come to you don’t fall upon him lavishing kisses and hugs. I mean how would you feel if a total stranger rushed towards you grabbed you and picked you up (apart from feeling like your luck had changed) probably your first instinct would either be fear or defensive. I ask all my clients who have new pups to lay on the floor on their stomach with their chin on the floor...........weird ha, no, that gives you a pup’s perspective of the world. So imagine from that perspective how we look to pups when we are bearing down on them............very daunting. When your pup gets his confidence and comes to say hello squat down nice and calmly and say, ‘hello’.
Once your pup has had a few days to settle in when people start to come round to see the new addition ask them as they come in to ignore him for a few minutes then squat down and see if the puppy wants to come over and say hello. If he does, great, ask them to say hello calmly and then leave him alone. This will lead to a dog that is calm and confident about visitors to your house.
TIP - IF YOU ARE BLESSED WITH A FORWARD PUP WHO APPEARS TO WANT TO TAKE ON THE WORLD IT DOES NOT MEAN YOU CAN RELAX IT MAY BE THE EARLY SIGNS OF DOMINANCE. SO IF HE APPEARS TO BE INTENT ON BOTHERING MEMBERS OF THE FAMILY OR GUESTS TO THE HOUSE, INTERVENE AND STOP THE BEHAVIOUR WE DO NOT WANT HIM LEARNING THAT BULLYING IS OK. IF YOU LEFT HIS BEHAVIOUR UNCHECKED HE WOULD BELIEVE YOUR LACK OF INTERVENTION WAS CONDONING THE BEHAVIOUR.
BEWARE: People who from the second they bring their puppy home won’t leave it alone can create all kinds of behavioural problems. On this subject one case springs to mind, a case I dealt with a couple of years ago. A very nice lady called and asked me to go and meet her dog she said she could not tell me what the problem was she was hoping I could work it out and resolve it. Interesting and it was very interesting......................to cut a long story short Harry wanted nothing to do with his nice lady owner if she went in a room he walked out. He would not even acknowledge his name let alone a command. With a detailed history and observation Harrys problem was easy to diagnosis he did not like his owner. From Harrys point of view his owner had pestered the life out of him since he has entered the house and from the time he got big enough to make his own decisions his decision was to stay as far away from her as possible. I can report that is no longer the case with the right behavioural programme Harry and his owner are now the best of mates.
Socialisation is about introducing your dog to the world and life experiences and learning manners.
During socialisation there may be times when your pup becomes scared DO NOT COMFORT HIM you would be encouraging fearful behaviour and we do not want that. If he becomes fearful, stay calm do not talk, touch or look at him wait until he calms and relaxes and then praise him. Praise the good behaviour and ignore the unwanted behaviour. Never walk away from what he is scared of you are giving him the message that you are both running away.
Dogs by nature are not predisposed to fear, however, some dogs are more than most that is why socialisation is so important.
First of all let’s get rid of a couple of myths
Can dogs be too old to train or be socialised?
Dogs can be socialised or trained at any age, my oldest client to date was a seventeen year old border collie and he loved every minute of it. Personally, I think he was chuffed that people realised he was not over the hill or past it that he was still a pup at heart and the socialisation and training opened up a new world to him that his fear had long denied him. It took years off him and added years to his life.
Socialisation is about dogs meeting people
Socialisation is not about introducing your dog to as many people as possible in a short space of time and letting everyone he meets pick him up, stand over him, ruffle his head etc. Neither is it about forcing him into every pack of dogs you meet.
There are different types of socialisation and all are important
1 – Being with mum
There is a very important reason why pups should stay with mum and their litter mates up to nine weeks of age. From their mums (assuming she is a well balanced dog herself) and their litter mates they start to learn social interaction, bite inhibition a good mum has a lot of valuable information to impart to her pups but she needs the time to do it. I know people worry about getting their puppies out and about early to socialise them, and worry that these extra weeks may stunt their social development. Firstly, no one can start the socialisation period as well as the bitch, Secondly a good breeder will not let the pups go early and will start the socialisation process and Thirdly the pups by the time you bring them home should already have had their first jab and be ready for their second. So you can take them out pretty soon after you bring them home.
2 – Socialising with people
A common mistake people make when they bring their puppy home is to immediately have loads of guests round to meet the pup and as they believe positively start their part of the socialisation process STOP. Now think about how this could go wrong he has just left his mum and litter mates and the only family he has ever known. He has had a trip in a big noisy box (car) with strange people (his new family) to say he is in a mild state of panic would be an understatement. So giving him a few days to settle in would be a sensible idea. Remember, he does not know you or the new house the best rule of thumb when you bring him home (after you have shown him where to go to toilet and where his water and bed are) is to leave him alone and let him get his feet under him. I don’t mean shut him away but let him at his own speed come to you. This is what builds confidence and when he does come to you don’t fall upon him lavishing kisses and hugs. I mean how would you feel if a total stranger rushed towards you grabbed you and picked you up (apart from feeling like your luck had changed) probably your first instinct would either be fear or defensive. I ask all my clients who have new pups to lay on the floor on their stomach with their chin on the floor...........weird ha, no, that gives you a pup’s perspective of the world. So imagine from that perspective how we look to pups when we are bearing down on them............very daunting. When your pup gets his confidence and comes to say hello squat down nice and calmly and say, ‘hello’.
Once your pup has had a few days to settle in when people start to come round to see the new addition ask them as they come in to ignore him for a few minutes then squat down and see if the puppy wants to come over and say hello. If he does, great, ask them to say hello calmly and then leave him alone. This will lead to a dog that is calm and confident about visitors to your house.
TIP - IF YOU ARE BLESSED WITH A FORWARD PUP WHO APPEARS TO WANT TO TAKE ON THE WORLD IT DOES NOT MEAN YOU CAN RELAX IT MAY BE THE EARLY SIGNS OF DOMINANCE. SO IF HE APPEARS TO BE INTENT ON BOTHERING MEMBERS OF THE FAMILY OR GUESTS TO THE HOUSE, INTERVENE AND STOP THE BEHAVIOUR WE DO NOT WANT HIM LEARNING THAT BULLYING IS OK. IF YOU LEFT HIS BEHAVIOUR UNCHECKED HE WOULD BELIEVE YOUR LACK OF INTERVENTION WAS CONDONING THE BEHAVIOUR.
BEWARE: People who from the second they bring their puppy home won’t leave it alone can create all kinds of behavioural problems. On this subject one case springs to mind, a case I dealt with a couple of years ago. A very nice lady called and asked me to go and meet her dog she said she could not tell me what the problem was she was hoping I could work it out and resolve it. Interesting and it was very interesting......................to cut a long story short Harry wanted nothing to do with his nice lady owner if she went in a room he walked out. He would not even acknowledge his name let alone a command. With a detailed history and observation Harrys problem was easy to diagnosis he did not like his owner. From Harrys point of view his owner had pestered the life out of him since he has entered the house and from the time he got big enough to make his own decisions his decision was to stay as far away from her as possible. I can report that is no longer the case with the right behavioural programme Harry and his owner are now the best of mates.
3 – Meeting people outside
Don’t worry this will not be such a long read, when you and your pup finally venture into the outside world ask people to just ignore him. His senses will already be in over drive at all the new sights, sounds and smells. Like when you bring him home and give him time to settle in do the same when venturing into the big wide world, give him a couple of weeks (weeks as opposed to days as with indoors because your puppy spends 90% of his life indoors he settles into your home far quicker than he comes to terms with the outside world) to get used to going out and about. Take him to different places and when he appears to be taking it in his stride then allow people to say, ‘hello’, but as with indoors, don’t let people overwhelm him, ask them to squat down and calmly say, ‘hello’ if he approaches them. If he does approach great, if he does not then he is not ready so give him more time by letting him come in his own time; this way you are allowing your pup to build confidence.
BEWARE: by not allowing him to come in his own time and by allowing people to overwhelm him you run the real risk of creating behavioural problems. One that springs to mind is fear aggression. Bad socialisation such as allowing people to overwhelm a young pup that is not ready to meet the world can create fear, the aggression comes when the pup is exposed to a fear inducing event (such as one person too many sweeping them off the floor). This event if left unchecked (i.e. you don’t work to resolve the problem) can lead to an adult dog that has to be muzzled in public and when guests arrive to ensure peoples safety. I am sad to say I have had to deal with too many cases such as these. People explain away the behaviour or say the dog will grow out of it, by the time they realise this is not going to happen the dog has had a lot of learning experiences and is confident about snapping and is fully grown .
PLEASE TAKE SOCIALISATION SERIOUSLY - IT IS EASY TO DO BUT THERE IS GOOD AND BAD SOCIALISATION.
4 – Meeting dogs
Meeting dogs like meeting people is important and should be controlled (don’t just push your pup into a pack of dogs and hope he works it out). Remember, his first experience of dog socialisation happens in the whelping box but the important thing to remember is that his mum will be monitoring and controlling the interaction between the pups and if the interaction appears to be getting out of hand she will reprimand them. If they barge into her and start climbing all over her in an anti-social way she will reprimand them. So here we go how to socialise our pup with other dogs.................
Puppy socialisations classes are great as long as they are monitored it should not be a case of leads off and let them have a free for all. At all times someone should be monitoring the interaction and should intervene should the interaction become too rough, excitable or too boisterous. Remember, they are there to learn the proper ways to say hello and interact and learn some manners.
Interaction with older dogs with good manners is just as important as meeting puppies. However, the same rules apply they should come forward in their own time they should not be pushed. In the same respect if they have the attitude they can take on the world they should not be allowed to be rough, any rough behaviour should be checked if you don’t the older dog will which is perfectly natural as dogs do tell each other off.
REMEMBER SOCIALISATION IS ABOUT YOUR DOGS MEETING THE WORLD, LIFE EXPERIENCES AND MANNERS.
5 – Environments
This, like all the other elements is important if you don’t want the dog that tries to chase off cars or hide under the sofa every firework night introduce him to as many different environments as possible. The environments should be full of noises, smells, colours and actions. But remember let him come forward in his own time. Think of all the things you like to do going out, driving, camping etc and introduce him to as many of them as possible.
I have a check list of environments that I introduce my puppies to and I do not tick a box until my puppies are in the environments and are calm and content to be there. Just because your pup has experienced an environment once does not mean he is socialised to the environment. Keep taking him until you are sure he is ok with it. If you would like a copy of my checklist please get in touch.
Socialisation is IMPORTANT if you want a fully grown dog that is happy and calm in any situation.
Don’t worry this will not be such a long read, when you and your pup finally venture into the outside world ask people to just ignore him. His senses will already be in over drive at all the new sights, sounds and smells. Like when you bring him home and give him time to settle in do the same when venturing into the big wide world, give him a couple of weeks (weeks as opposed to days as with indoors because your puppy spends 90% of his life indoors he settles into your home far quicker than he comes to terms with the outside world) to get used to going out and about. Take him to different places and when he appears to be taking it in his stride then allow people to say, ‘hello’, but as with indoors, don’t let people overwhelm him, ask them to squat down and calmly say, ‘hello’ if he approaches them. If he does approach great, if he does not then he is not ready so give him more time by letting him come in his own time; this way you are allowing your pup to build confidence.
BEWARE: by not allowing him to come in his own time and by allowing people to overwhelm him you run the real risk of creating behavioural problems. One that springs to mind is fear aggression. Bad socialisation such as allowing people to overwhelm a young pup that is not ready to meet the world can create fear, the aggression comes when the pup is exposed to a fear inducing event (such as one person too many sweeping them off the floor). This event if left unchecked (i.e. you don’t work to resolve the problem) can lead to an adult dog that has to be muzzled in public and when guests arrive to ensure peoples safety. I am sad to say I have had to deal with too many cases such as these. People explain away the behaviour or say the dog will grow out of it, by the time they realise this is not going to happen the dog has had a lot of learning experiences and is confident about snapping and is fully grown .
PLEASE TAKE SOCIALISATION SERIOUSLY - IT IS EASY TO DO BUT THERE IS GOOD AND BAD SOCIALISATION.
4 – Meeting dogs
Meeting dogs like meeting people is important and should be controlled (don’t just push your pup into a pack of dogs and hope he works it out). Remember, his first experience of dog socialisation happens in the whelping box but the important thing to remember is that his mum will be monitoring and controlling the interaction between the pups and if the interaction appears to be getting out of hand she will reprimand them. If they barge into her and start climbing all over her in an anti-social way she will reprimand them. So here we go how to socialise our pup with other dogs.................
Puppy socialisations classes are great as long as they are monitored it should not be a case of leads off and let them have a free for all. At all times someone should be monitoring the interaction and should intervene should the interaction become too rough, excitable or too boisterous. Remember, they are there to learn the proper ways to say hello and interact and learn some manners.
Interaction with older dogs with good manners is just as important as meeting puppies. However, the same rules apply they should come forward in their own time they should not be pushed. In the same respect if they have the attitude they can take on the world they should not be allowed to be rough, any rough behaviour should be checked if you don’t the older dog will which is perfectly natural as dogs do tell each other off.
REMEMBER SOCIALISATION IS ABOUT YOUR DOGS MEETING THE WORLD, LIFE EXPERIENCES AND MANNERS.
5 – Environments
This, like all the other elements is important if you don’t want the dog that tries to chase off cars or hide under the sofa every firework night introduce him to as many different environments as possible. The environments should be full of noises, smells, colours and actions. But remember let him come forward in his own time. Think of all the things you like to do going out, driving, camping etc and introduce him to as many of them as possible.
I have a check list of environments that I introduce my puppies to and I do not tick a box until my puppies are in the environments and are calm and content to be there. Just because your pup has experienced an environment once does not mean he is socialised to the environment. Keep taking him until you are sure he is ok with it. If you would like a copy of my checklist please get in touch.
Socialisation is IMPORTANT if you want a fully grown dog that is happy and calm in any situation.
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